They say cheddar is better...

Of all the things I assumed I'd live without in Italy, one I never considered was cheddar cheese. Really. I've not seen any. And I overheard someone in my second week pining for cheddar cheese on his hamburger in an Irish pub. I'm not exactly pining yet, but there is this broccoli salad I wanted to make... a key ingredient is cheddar. So that's out. And sometimes, you want a plain old grilled cheese.... and if you're me, you want one more than sometimes. It's just not the same with the hard white cheeses. How can any country not have cheddar cheese? I never realized the yellow cheeses were so... American.

The other night, I walked across the city into the Quirinale (the area where most of the government buildings are located) and saw, at night, the infamous Trevi Fountain. Subject of many an art history lecture. It was beautiful. The other thing about the Trevi, is that it has a magnetic pull like nothing I've ever experienced (well, OK, certainly a sparkling lake on a 92 degree day in Michigan) that just makes you want to swim in it. Even the pictures recall the strength of that desire. Seriously. You see it, and you immediately want to swim in it. I suppose that's why it is guarded unceasingly, 24 hours a day, with serious penalties involving immediate imprisonment if you DO give in to the urge.
The fountain is surrounded by people - just sitting on the steps around the fountain, spending time together for the evening. It's like a park where everyone goes to hang out. Well, most piazzas are like that. Walk through an italian piazza at night and you'll feel like you've wandered into a very exclusive and exciting outdoor party. Each quaint little side street feels like a hidden and exciting discovery - some fantastic nook no one's ever seen before. If you came across one in the states, it would seem a rare treasure trove.

Another thing I did for a few days this week was hop on a bus after italian class and go over to St. Peter's for Mass. I wanted to go back there after that first day and absorb some more. Stand in the piazza within Bernini's magnificent colonnade. Walk in through the front doors. Actually go to Mass there. In some ways it is amazing. They have music at the daily Masses, which I enjoy. Mass is said in Latin, which is new for me. I actually know the responses better in Italian. The entire time you are facing Bernini's Chair of Peter, which contains a relic of his actual chair, above which is the magnificent Holy Spirit window (of which there is a replica at CTK!). The view is certainly awe inspiring. At the same time, about halfway through, you realize half the people there didn't even know they were at Mass and they probably meandered through the blockades and guards to get a better photo of the Chair and window. Participation is extremely low (of course, if most people are like me, it is merely due to the language barrier). And perhaps the saddest thing, is that when it comes time to receive communion, guards come out of the woodwork and stand within inches of the extraordinary ministers in order to insure that the Eucharist is not desecrated, which is apparently quite common here.

I will make one observation. In my undergraduate years, studying at Michigan State in art and art history, I remember learning about St. Peter's from the perspective of an art historian. I remember the many hours devoted to the genius of Gian Lorenzo Bernini. I remember the day we talked about the Colonnade. My professor said that it was intended to be as arms, the arms of the Church, open wide encompassing the people, inviting them in. I stood there, in the vast arms outstretched and applauded Bernini for his success. For this is how it seems when you stand within them... a physical representation of the outstretched arms of the Church, of Christ, embracing His people, inviting them... "Come in."